used dining room furniture

used dining room furniture

hi i'm teri masaschi in the finishing shop today we're going to tackle a job thatmost people find somewhat unpleasant and that would be stripping paint offof a piece of furniture now, this table is a really nice mahogany dining room table and someone haspainted it, very heavily with what i consider to bea pretty darn ugly paint so we're gonna bring this back to its former beauty

we're going to be using a paint stripper if you thought that maybeyou could attack this table with sandpaper don't do it you will create somuch damage by trying to sand the paint off you'll go through the paint and possiblyinto the wood and it'll create more damage so we'regoing to chemically remove this paint and then we're going to sand lightly before finishing

this is the thick stipper that you're going to be using it's a semi paste and it's good because it stays wet and thick for a longer period oftime because that's what you need when you wanna get that paint softenedso that you can actually push it off make sure it's a heavy application and then the next thing you need

is patience you wanna make sure that the chemical does the work don't be immediately scraping it off let it sit. let it soften. let it do the work so let's get to work apply the thick paste on a workable sized area don't let the remover dry. recoat as necessary use the putty knife to push the softenedpaint off

you know it is ready when it comes rightoff with no effort use a maroon pad with fresh remover toscrub off the white residue, then dry off with a rag to check your progress do the rest the table in the same way now we're ready to strip the base these are going to be a lot moretime consuming and a lot more difficult to get the paint out at the grooves andthen you've got the turn column so be prepared for a little bit moretime on these two pedestals

also too while we're stripping, somebody painted these gold. theseneed to be stripped of too because these are probably brass once again we're going to be using the thick stripper because the paint needs to soften andtake time make sure you wear gloves and with the additional exposure of this chemical youreally do need to use a respirator as well as getting the air moving

in your work space. get a fan and have it pulling the air away from you so that you don't get all of this toxic fumes from thisproduct it is very corrosive and very dangerous coat the entire pedestal with a thick application of the remover start to push off the layers of paint with a putty knife

use a brass bristle brush to scrub the paint out of the grooves and crevices take sawdust and sprinkle it on the deep turned areasand whisk the remover and sawdust off with thewhisk-broom the bristles dig deep getting the paint out okay we have all the heavy paint removed from here you can still see there some white haze and residue left of

the original white paint we're gonna switch removers from the heavy paste. we're going into avery liquidy water remover we're just gonna wash it because it will rapidly take down allthat residue you can also use lacquer thinner,

but this remover will do a very fast job of - can even swab it and that brings the wood up nice andclean and gets it ready for sanding if you have any paint left in the grooves make sure you use your brass brush that's gonna take care of all that tinylittle white paint that doesn't look like much now but after youfinish your table it's gonna stare at you so lets

leave this to dry and then it will be sanded the random orbit sander with 180 will sand the flats of the legswell be careful not to bump into the pedestal area with the spinning disk use the micro zip to sand the round area of the lowerpedestal a flexible sponge runs up the curveof the leg perfectly

quarter of a sheet of sand paper fold and hand sand the smooth parts of theupper pedestal use a maroon pad to clean and smooth thedeep coves of the rest of the pedestal tack off the pedestal and apply the mahogany wiping stain allow to dry we are finishing the top of this tableby spray so i want the base to have the same lookof a sprayed finish

this can be done with aerosols tack off and use an aerosol sealer outside. light multiple coats and a can handle makes the job easy. apply the aerosol topcoat in the same manner the table is all stripped and it came out super all that white paint really, really did come off

we have some residue here and that'll just be sanded off and so the next job is to sand this with first the random orbit sander andthen we'll be using the block to do the edges we do have to be careful. this is aveneer top so i'm gonna be sending with 180 only i don't wanna burn through this veneer so once we get this sanded, thenwe got a few holes to patch

and then we'll get it stained carefully sand by moving the random orbit over the entire top without heavypressure or tipping do not roll the sander off the edge hand sand the edges with the finish block and 180 grit folded sandpaper will clean up thegroove on the skirt filling holes is an important next step in preparing for staining this table now that the table has been sanded you

can see more easily some of the holes. here's one here there's a really bad one here on theedge so we're going to go through the two fillers that you're going to need to get this table smooth and ready tostain. now this is a hardware store variety filler and you need to stir it up makesure the colorant in there is good and mixed in and this is perfectly fine for a little hole

in the interior of the surface of thistable however, when you talk about an edge like thisthat's going to get a lot of wear and tear, this filler would never be strong enoughand this is full of old dirt and paint what not. so we're actuallygoing to carve it out a little bit we're going to actually pull some ofthis old wood off of here, and create a new, fresh hole, so that the filler will actually stick.

otherwise it'll just pop right out and the filler itself is going to be anauto body filler otherwise known as a polyester and ithas a little tube of hardener that goes with it and we're gonnatake a little piece of sand paper and use that as our mixing palette don't need very much just take a small amount out and the trick here is to make sure you don't really use a pile of hardener.

really, that's as much as you need more hardener does not mean harder that actually messes up the hardening of the putty so, mix it thoroughly get that hardener put in and you gottamove along pretty quick because this stuff hardens up ratherrapidly once you feel like it's well mixed, go ahead and put that in the hole. try not

to get too messy around the surrounding area get that filled so it's nice and overfilled walk away takes about 20 minutes for it to harden and then we'll come back and sand it and then we'll do some staining sand the cured filler with the finishingblock in 180

it shears off the pile of dried filler perfectly stain the table by working quickly to spread the stain work from one edge to the other notstopping in the middle to avoid lap marks wipe all of the excess off okay the table is all stained gonna let it dry for four or five hours next step is we're actually going totransport this to a spray room and have a professional top coat thisfor us they'll put a sealer on it and a

topcoat and it will be a heck of a lot easierthan trying to do a hand applied finish on such a big surface the professional that is spraying this table is me the sealer is applied smoothly and quickly when dry, it is scuffed with 320, tacked off and then the topcoat is applied the topcoat get scuffed with 320,

tacked off, and a second coat is applied the finish is thoroughly dry and now we're ready to do the last partof the process which is called rubbing out rubbing out means that any little tiny dust bumps and littlenibs that you can feel can be taken away so, now we're going to use either aultra-fine

non-woven abrasive, or we can use 0000 steel wool my preference is the nonwoven it's not as messy and it'snot flammable our lubricant is going to be pace wax you don't ever rub out a finish dry it's too aggressive so we're going to put some pace wax on this pad just take some right out ofthe can and

then we're going to smooth the surfacewith some firm pressure not too crazy go with the grain as best you can take a clean cloth buff the wax off and you're done this process is really good for satin finishes wow feel that. that is gorgeous

absolutely gorgeous. so that is how you would do the rest of the two bases now when it comes to a surface, that's alittle different this is a very big, broad surface and rather than using just a pad you're going to put the pad on thefinishing block and you're going to put some wax on this pad dig some out

get some on there firm pressure absolutely with the grain go with the grain do not deviate nice long, straight strokes keep in mind that you don't ever wanna run outta waxon your pad if you do stop and reload

now, let's just buffthis down and see how we're doing this is going to change the sheen ofthe surface a little bit before when it was just the finish itwas kinda brassy this creates a nice soft glow to the surface you can see the difference between wherei've rubbed out and where i haven't so this is feeling very nice it's gotten rid of all the dust bumps

and it's given me more of a pleasantsurface congratulations! you've just learned howto do a simple rub out. table is done and now i can enjoy the fruits of mylabor every time i look at this table i'm just gonna smile because it came outso beautiful. it was well worth sloggingyour way through all that white paint bon apetit

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